COMPARATIVE LIT ESSAY:
Blending. I don’t want to sound blasphemous, but sometimes when humans blend various apples together, it is better than what mother nature offers in a single apple. And let’s face it, blending is what separates the cider artists form those that just make what the good Lord gave them. Tonight, I have three interpretations of “blends” from three cidermakers I respect a lot. The first comes from the Pacific Northwest, 2 Towns 10th Anniversary Release consists of a blend of six cider apple varietals coming from “the valley they call home.” The second comes from San Diego County at the southern edge of America’s west coast. Though they don’t reveal the five varietals, they all come from the mountains just inland from Southtown at about 4000’ elevation. Finally, we have a “New England Blend” from Stem Ciders, probably the largest cidery in Colorado, a hotbed of cider activity. So, let’s break these three down:
Just looking at them the 2 Towns is the bubbliest, Amalgam slightly less so and Stem is the least bubbly and pretty still. The colors move in the other direction though as 2 Towns is a straw color, Amalgam a nice pale gold, and Stem is a pale amber. The 2 Towns has a light nose, Amalgam is slightly heavy, and Stem is dark and slightly mysterious—and my choice for best aroma. The 10th Anniversary from 2 Towns has some whimsy. It is more like a fancy semi-sweet cider that is light and fruity, tart and sweet. Amalgam is like a farmhouse cider but not too aggressive with plenty of apple flavor left. It is complex and serious with a unique finish. Lastly, the New England Blend is heavy and dense. It is the least acidic, but also has the least amount of fruit. It is a bit bitter and is definitely the driest—ignore that it says it has brown sugar, this will not taste like an Austin Eastcider which also famously uses brown sugar. There is also a prominent whiskey flavor from the barrel aging.
If this were a book it would be “Goldilocks and the Three Blends.” 2 Towns is the baby blend—light, sweet, and refreshing. Anyone could like this. Amalgam is the mama blend—there are sweet and apply moments, but this is a grown up drink—a farmhouse not for the uninitiated, but perfect for those willing to dig deeper and can handle the acidity and still enjoy the unique characteristics of unique apple varietals. While potent, it has enough sweetness to maybe get you by. Finally, the New England Blend is the daddy blend. This is the most whiskey-like cider I’ve had in a while, especially as it is not branded as one. While old-school New England ciders are known for raisin and brown sugar, you shouldn’t be fooled, this is not a cheery, light-hearted, Norman Rockwell painting of Deerfield, it is a man’s drink (or for tough ladies). It is more attuned to a drinking jacket and cigar than with a fruity light-hearted picnic in the Berkshires. Now, all of these are great, well made, ciders and are within two points of each other. So, the only question left is which chair do you want to sit in? Baby, mama, or daddy? Be honest. Depending on my mood, I could be any of the three. I may be baby bear most often, but tonight I’m mama bear as I think Amalgam is the best crafted of the three.