COMPARATIVE LIT ESSAY:
Perry is cider’s ancient cousin and fermented pear juice goes back to the Greeks and is basically Biblical. Even though it has had a long life in Europe, a number of American modern cider makers have put their twist on this old-world classic. Tonight’s perry collection comes from three of my favorite regional cider makers from across the country: Massachusetts’ Downeast is known for their unfiltered craft cider and Pear is their attempt at a perry. The second is Colorado Cider Company’s Pearzarro, which is the more sophisticated of the two perries they make. And finally, Nat West’s Valley of the Pear which is one of his latest concoctions complete with an outrageous culinary travel backstory. In many ways these perries represent the best of the American cider industry’s take on how to make an American perry.
The colors are all noticeably different as Downeast is a cloudy pastel yellow, Pearzarro is a somewhat bizarre clear color and Valley of the Pear looks much like your typical amber drink. All three noses are fantastic. Valley of the Pear has a creamsicle and pie aroma with the least amount of pear, Pearzarro has subtle yeasty notes and is lovely, and Downeast has the brightest nose with the strongest pear smell (which I preferred). Valley of the Pear has the most going on flavor wise and has the thickest heaviest mouthfeel. It is creamy and sweet. Downeast is soft, light and airy. Incredibly refreshing. It feels like you could put this in one of those giant orange Gatorade jugs and serve this during halftime of an adult rugby league game. The Pearzarro is also light but it is the most rustic of the three. It is the most like a traditional perry with unique acidic characteristics. It is also the driest of the three with the best finish.
Let’s face it, choosing between these three is a fool’s errand for me. I’d be so happy to find any of these in my fridge and would be glad to share these with my friends. But as I said, they are all incredibly diverse so it depends on your moods and taste. The Pearzarro is the most sophisticated of the three despite its comic book can art, and it is the most like an old world perry. However, despite the wild fermentation and slight raw and acidic first impression, it smooths out quickly and is incredibly soft and light for a farmhouse-style perry. It has the most edge but is still smooth and enjoyable. Wine lovers may enjoy this drink and I think it is the most suitable for fine food pairing. The Rev. Nat’s is what it should be—brilliantly complicated yet enjoyable and drinkable. This is the American perry I want in the winter. It’s got holiday spice but is still sweet and drinkable all night long. It is so creamy it’s almost like the perfect liquid dessert. Even though the first two were excellent (and I hope to have them both again soon) tonight I am choosing Downeast for two main reasons. First, I spent six hours in the sun today staining my fence and it is the most refreshing. Second, It took me back to my grandma’s backyard next to the creek on a hot summer’s day. It is a bit sweet and incredibly soft and smooth and would be refreshing for any summer day in America.