COMPARATIVE LIT ESSAY:
The Dabinett apple is a classic English cider apple that oozes with charm when turned into cider, but not one you’d want to find on the dinner table. I have two interpretations of Dabinett from two of the most-feted and most-medaled cider makers from Colorado. The first offering comes from Haykin Family Cider, and I have learned to trust Dan Haykin’s nose and instincts for selecting and fermenting apples. The second option comes from Ty Williams of Snow Capped Cider who hails from a multi-generational Colorado orchard on the state’s Western Slope. In recent years they have been turning to high-end single varietals which boast a unique high-elevation terroir which in my estimation produces some excellent cider apples. So, let’s see what these two Colorado cider maestros have created.
The Haykin is a nice pale gold color with the Snow Capped being maybe one shade darker. The Snow Capped has a deeper nose, but I preferred the fruity and buttery nose of Haykin which also had a clear zing to it. Haykin’s Dabinett is more subtle with nice drying characteristics. It is more astringent and borderline bitter. It also has the lighter and brighter mouthfeel. One the other hand, Snow Capped has a bigger and sweeter flavor which is perfectly balanced for me. It is more of a semi-dry than a true dry. There is a mild burn at the end while remaining tart and fruity throughout. It also has a more viscous mouthfeel that feels more balanced that the Haykin. It should also be pointed out that whereas Snow Capped is a true single varietal, Haykin’s comes with 20% Ashmead’s Kernal, which you can clearly get hints of if you’ve ever experienced that unique apple in their ciders before.
From the outset I will say you can’t go wrong with either. They are both great and I would expect nothing less than the great amount of tender love and care that these two cider makers have shown. So how to chose when they come in at comparable price points? As Socrates says, “know thyself.” If you like a light-bodied bright cider with astringent and drying characteristics that will take you to a satisfyingly bitter place, then Haykin is the cider for you. I also think that this is a better cider for pairing—do you have something salty or light to eat? That would amplify the unique flavors of the Haykin option and be fantastic. However, for me, the Snow Capped is a better drinking cider. I would have this by itself all evening. It goes down incredibly well and has enough character to be drunk by itself or with bigger, richer foods. It reminds me of a good Pays d’Augue with both sweetness and depth. (Yes, yes, I know the apples come from the wrong side of the Channel) This medium-to-full bodied cider is still effortless to drink. Both of these ciders showcase the richness of the Dabinett, and while Haykin Family Cider is the more contemplative and unique of the two, I give the nod to Snow Capped because of the mouthfeel and conviviality. I want to buy another bottle and share it with my colleagues at a cheery Christmas party.