COMPARATIVE LIT ESSAY:
The introduction of glass bottles by the Venetians in the 1600s allowed for a new method of fermenting wines and ciders which created a natural petulant drink, though this method is now considered ancient. With both Pet-Nat and Method Ancestrale bottle conditioning, cider begins its first fermentation process in other vessels, but before the process is completed, it is transferred to bottles to continue the secondary fermentation process in the bottle, which gives off its own natural carbon dioxide. The bottles are usually placed upside down at an angle on racks in a process known as riddling. This allows for the sediment to settle in the neck before being disgorged by hand. Deceptively simple there are lots of things that can go wrong and it is usually only taken up by the intrepid or those with large supply of mops and cleaning products to clean up the mess. Two of the most respected cider makers count bottle conditioning techniques as part of their repertoire. Eden’s starts their Sparkling Dry Cider blend in French oak barrels before being transferred to bottles. Haykin Family Cider’s Ela Family Cuveé uses the method ancestrale where nothing is added during the secondary fermentation process and uses a blend of a number of different apple varietals including Cox’s Orange Pippin, Ashmead’s Kernal, Jonathan, Golden Delicious and others.
I preferred the nose of the Eden cider which had a much richer aroma. The flavor, however, was not nearly as big or as bold. There was not a lot apple flavor and a clear heavy alcohol flavor dominated the middle phase. The actual taste was heavy, dryer, more bitter and more acidic than the Haykin Cuvee. More mellow for sure. The Haykin cider was creamier, lighter, airier, and bubblier than the Eden cider. They get so many unique flavors out of their apples, which is a testament in part to Ela Farms, but overall, this is soft and nuanced which created a calming experience.
The clear winner in this head-to-head taste test was the Haykin option, though I found myself drawn to Eden and continued to come back to it even after I decided the winner. It is an inspiring drink and very good, but it depends on what you are looking for. Cider often evokes images and moods when I drink them. For me, the Eden was best suited to a dark and smokey room—you have to be up for a heavier more serious cider. They Haykin took me to a big house in Bermuda where I was wearing billowy clothes and enjoying a calm ocean breeze. In the end the Haykin just used more lively apples that had more character and charm. This drink is truly special.