COMPARATIVE LIT ESSAY:
If you are new to cider and coming from the world of wine, you might have heard of the pétillant naturel, or pét-nat method of making sparkling wines. Sometimes referred to as the methode ancestral, this is a centuries-old tradition which is both more simple, and more daring, than other forms of making sparkling wines and ciders. In essence, the cider is bottled before it is done with its initial fermentation process, allowing the yeasts to eat the sugars creating both alcohol and carbon dioxide, and thus creating a naturally petillant or bubbly drink. Most other drinks complete the fermentation process before bottling (some will pump in carbon dioxide at this point), or, as with the more complicated méthode champenoise, or traditional method, the finished wine will undergo a second fermentation in a bottle, when sugar or another sweetener will be added to achieve its bubbles (which sometimes includes time on a rack upside down and a process of disgorgement). Because the pét-nat cidermaker bottles before fermentation, it is largely a guess to know what the yeasts and sugars will do before the top is popped and ready for the drinker to have a flavorful surprise. While not super common, I was able to get my hands on two ciders using this process: one from Maine using a single apple varietal, Stark, from Rocky Ground; and Farmstead’s Teton Pét-Nat naming their drink with a little local French lingo to complement the French style. (well played)
In comparing the two, I do think the Stark is a wink prettier in the glass with its beautiful golden color. The nose on the Stark is strongly acidic, but with a pleasant fruity undertone, whereas the Teton Pét-Nat’s more sprightly bubbles also make for a crisper nose that is lightly sweet and a bit acidic. It is certainly the more petillant of the two. The flavor mostly follows on from the nose for both drinks, with Stark proving to be more strongly acidic, more intriguing, and bit bitter in the finish. It is like a mellow farmhouse that is not too potent. The Wyoming cider is lighter, crisper, with a tarter character than the Stark. It is also more refreshing, and even though it is very bubbly, it is still quite dry.
I don’t want to pretend that I’m a pét-nat expert—I’m not—but it seems Farmstead has better captured the desired goal of a pét-nat: a naturally petillant and sparkling drink. Compared to the Stark, Teton is much lighter and bubblier. It’s crisp, fresh and maybe a bit tart (making it a more pronounced cider pét-nat essence compared to wine pét-nats) and from that point alone, I feel the need to give the nod to Farmstead. However, mood should determine everything. Do you want a still cider that is not excitable, but calm, subtle and lovely? Do you like the farmhouse style and more mellowness without a ton of character or an acidic burn? Do you want to sit on a rocking chair watching the world go by without a sweet attention-grab drink, and maybe a skosh bitter? Rocky Ground’s Stark is down-to-earth will do just fine. If, however, you want something with a little more pep in its step, a cider with a crisp, bubbly, acidic bite that’s not over the top; as well as something that is a bit tart which would pair with a rich juicy meal by cutting the flavor with its crispness, then the Teton Pét-Nat would be great! Certainly, I wish I had another.