COMPARATIVE LIT ESSAY:
The Golden Russet apple may be America’s greatest contribution to the cider world. Though Americans sometimes get eye-rolled for using dessert apples in cider, I can tell you that this heirloom varietal originating from upstate New York some 200 years ago has just about everything you could want in an apple in order to make "proper cider." It has a high sugar content which is ideal for robust alcohol content and sufficient sweetness levels, it is tart and acidic, aromatic and fleshy, and has a beautiful skin color. (Well, many American consumers think the russet color is ugly and thus they are rarely used now for eating apples) Instead of trying three ciders from the traditional homelands of the Golden Russet in the American Northeast, tonight I am trying three offerings from cideries in the Rocky Mountain West who appear to take their apples very seriously. All of these cideries apples are sourced from orchards that specialize in cider apples. Snow Capped’s history stems from over a century of growing fruit in Colorado, where Western Cider in Montana decided to plant their own trees a few years ago on their estate—I don’t know what it means that my bottle came from "rootstock #9", but the fact that they track these things demonstrates that they take this seriously. Of the three options tonight, only Haykin’s Golden Russet (also from Colorado) is a true single varietal cider where they use nothing but Golden Russet apples. Western’s Russet Blend is blended with other russeted varietals and Snow Capped’s Gold Rush has blended in other cider apples like Ashmead’s Kernal which is closely related to the Golden Russet. I will say from the outset that all three are fantastic and I am now a firm believer that the Golden Russet is just a better apple for cider making than pretty much anything else out there.
So to break down these three drinks more concretely they all have golden hues—Haykin is the lightest with a golden straw color, Western has a lovely pale gold color where the Gold Rush has a deep gold glow that I find the most attractive of the three. I also think Gold Rush has the best nose as it is tannic, rich and sweet. The Russet Blend is intriguing with musty and sour notes whereas the Golden Russet’s nose is slightly solvent, though that is covered up by a bright citric acidic aroma. Gold Rush has a big round fruity taste with some sweetness. It then turns tart followed by some tannic bitterness at the end. A very bold cider with seemingly the right amount of everything. Haykin is the most complex of the three, as well as the brightest and most acidic. Haykin’s Golden Russet also has unexpected tropical notes of passionfruit and grapefruit that is somehow jammy and sweet, and tart and bitter at the same time. Finally, Western’s Russet Blend is the most still, the heaviest and driest of the three. It has a buttery nose and mouthfeel and the character of a proper drink with a bit of an old man feel.
I know I am supposed to be a critic, but these are all fantastic! Maybe this was a foregone conclusion as Golden Russets are just destined to make great ciders that are complex, slightly sweet and very drinkable. All three of these fit that description in different ways and each should be loved and cherished. However, that does puts me in the impossible position of claiming a winner. More importantly, though, I want you to find the best Golden Russet-inspired cider for your evening. I think the Gold Rush is probably best if you are transitioning from standard semi-sweet ciders to farmhouse ciders or more sophisticated drinks. This is complex but still sweet and easy to drink—in fact, I could down these all night. If I were having a contemplative drinking session alone or with a friend or two the Western would be an excellent choice as it is the most serious of the three. I guess, however, if you were looking to lighten the mood, and who isn’t in 2020, Haykin has a bit more fun and whimsy. It is bright, sharp, tropical, and much more perky than you might expect a Golden Russet cider to be. So, it gets my vote tonight, but all are excellent.